Hundreds and thousands of gay men (and generally glbt people today) wear leather gear and participate in leather events. But why wearing leather? What’s the story behind it? In this article, we will cover why gay men wear leather, passing from its original meaning, and today’s social trends.
Why gay men wear Leather today
A lot of people outside the “community” and within it, find Leather hot and sexy, even when they are talking badly about leather-folk to their peers. At the time of the update of this article, in 2024, things have slightly changed to a wider acceptance and welcoming to any kind of “look”, as wearing Leather has been reduced to little more than a fashion statement, due to the growing economical interests of events organizers in welcoming as many people as possible in the scene, regardless of their adherence to what Leather is actually supposed to be about.
This is true to the point that the cultural appropriative behavior of the queer scene today, leads to situation where people attending to Leather events, complain about having to wear leather in the first place.
God I hate wearing boots. Can that be the next thing millennials and Gen Z kill? The idea that boots are somehow kinky? You know what’s super kinky to wear in a bar? Airwalks. Or a sensible running shoe.
— BearSpanks🧸👋💥🍑 Hot Seat Vegas (@nwcub2019) September 3, 2023
So now seriously there’s a discussion about banning Leather from Leather events because some woke people are generalizing that ALL MEN wearing Boots are Nazis.
— LeatherBigWolf (@LeatherBigWolf) September 5, 2023
Great. Intelligent. Just a fine display of progress 🤡
I think, though, that an explanation is needed both for the people gravitating towards the community and also for those ones already inside of it. As I stated many times on this website, there is no sense in doing the WHAT if there is no WHY. This shows up especially in the typical situation where a man from within the actual scene can tell you why Old Guard Leathermen wear leather, while if you try asking anybody in New Guard “why do you wear leather?”, they won’t actually be able to answer you.
Most of them will actually admit to you they’re actually uncomfortable in it, and that they can’t wait to take it off when they come home from the club (or when they’re finished taking pictures for their social media).
While Leather culture is rooted in a very specific history, nowadays many people wear Leather to emulate a visual stereotype which became increasingly popular in the late 1960’s, when the image of “The Wild One” starring Marlon Brando , heavily visually inspired by Tom of Finland’s Kake.
This kind of “look” was welcomed by part of the gay crowd as an opposition to the standardization of homosexuality as necessarily feminine and frail, as at the beginning of the 20th century, that was the accepted image of homosexuality, when and if homosexuality was accepted at all.
As we have covered in depth in our article that explains what a Leatherman is, being a Leatherman is not about wearing a fabric. If if was all so simple, then gay people wearing a t-shirt would be called “cottonmen”, and people wearing jeans “denimmen”, or something on this level of silliness.
Nomen Omen: why are we called Leather Men
Being a Leatherman has to do with the Roots of Old Guard Leather, which look back at the period right after the end of World War 2. The fact that at the time most men coming from military life would own and ride a motorcycle, is contextual to the fact that all these men wore protective gear, and that gear, was Leather wear and Motorcycle Boots. This is the reason why this visual stereotype exists. Even the ever loved work of Tom of Finland and his character, Kake, visually stems from this.
A Leatherman at the time was a motorcycle rider, belonging to a club; each club had specific rules, and to different degrees creeds to live by, codes of honor, and some of these motorcycle clubs were composed by gay or bisexual men. One example above all, was the Satyr’s club.
Today, a Leatherman is a man who still lives by those ideals and rules of conduct, with a lifestyle based on discipline and honor, but we rarely wear Leather, as it’s not about a fetish for the gear. It’s not an “outfit”, it’s gear that is supposed to be contextual to what you’re doing. It’s about the lifestyle of it. The reason why today men still wear full Leathers, will be covered further on in this article. So nowadays the reason to wear Leather for a Leatherman, are celebrations and spending time to reconnect to our roots, or because of contextual etiquette.
What is a Leatherman
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The history of Leather Culture in Post World War 2
The Leather BDSM community found its fortune and development in the US and central Europe right after War World II. BDSM and the roots of Leather Culture are deeper than that, as beautifully covered in the very first chapter of Urban Aboriginals, by Geoff Mains; but for the sake of staying on topic, let’s say that in modern culture, the explosion (and the beginning of social acceptance) of BDSM happened in that time.
After World War II, life slowly started again to breathe and spread, and there was much more space for opening new clubs, bringing up new ideas and ideals, and meeting different cultures. Motorcycles were very common and profusely used back in the day, and especially US military officials still staying in Europe* were seen going around the towns and the harbors in their uniforms and boots. The culture of the motorcycle is a big part of what defined the Leather Culture. From “The Satyr” in Los Angeles to the “New York Motorbike Club”, the “Warlocks” and the “California Motor Club” in San Francisco, many gay and bi-sexual motorcycle clubs started to sprout across the country; loving to ride a motorcycle, the sense of extreme freedom it gives, paired with the sense of freedom of the end of the war and being able to work up a sense of community around each other’s sexuality, was a great thing. For a deeper coverage on the detailed history of Leather and how it moved from Old Guard to new guard, there’s an article about the History of Old Guard Leather.
History of Old Guard Leather
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Leather in pop culture
So you can imagine how quickly the trend of men wearing leather started to spread, among gay people of a certain community. Wearing leather soon started to become a political statement. It meant identifying yourself as part of bigger community, a community led by freedom, an independent and original (your own) sexuality, the need to create a sense of family and pack and live accordingly to a chosen and embraced set of rules.
This dynamic and the arrival of Leather stereotypes in movies and other media threw leather into pop culture, from where Marlon Brando and James Dean where seen by millions of people riding motorcycles, wearing Muir caps and dressing in tight leather and boots. The arrival of the comics of Tom of Finland on Beefcake Magazine contributed to spread even further the “look” of a Leatherman in the glbt scene. You can read our article on the History of Leather Culture for a more in depth coverage of how Leather penetrated pop culture, detaching from Old Guard.
And here you have it: the globalization of a “look”, which has a lot of meaning and history. A history that nowadays most of the gay men wearing leather don’t care about, and one that some others really try very hard to cancel.
The problem of non Leather Folk wearing Leather as a fashion statement or a trend
Indeed, while in the last decades of the last century Leather was being used as a symbol of worship and idealization of masculinity, today the glbt (and especially queer) community is openly aggressive towards masculinity, not to mention towards the traditional understanding of what is masculine and what is not. Therefor, there can’t be even a reference to that.
Nowadays, anyone wears “gear”. Kinky Gear has become in the glbt scene what piercings and tattoes were for pop culture in the 90’s. Something that everybody is doing, and that gets emulated and repeated. Sometimes that gear is made of Leather (more often it’s made of neoprene or rubber), but very often there is no significant meaning behind wearing such garments, if not the seek of social validation.
I have to admit that it’s really difficult for an Old Guard Leatherman to witness this, and I understand how hard it is for non Old Guard people not to feel attacked . I don’t go to events since a long time, but I recall how I felt when I started seeing guys who were not leather folk wearing a harness, a leather jock strap, or chaps and sneakers and a Muir cap. And it’s the same still today.
I see a symbolism that represented (and still does) for many men a culture, being downgraded to an accessory to take pictures and feel cool on Social Media.
Literally today each and every queer person have seen a harness onto somebody and / or owns one. Leather shops are not helping in this sense, selling of course all kinds of new “gear” with pipings and random colors* that have no meaning whatsoever. Though, they “look pretty”.
For traditional Leathermen, this shift in the scene is often lived as an insult to the strong and brave heart of the community that led us here, and it has to be understood that the globalization and turning everything into “fashion”, together with the merciless queer-washing phenomenon against anything traditional, has consequences. It creates a strong divide, it creates a “us vs you” that is completely unnecessary.
*About colors: did you know why leathermen (but not only them) wear colored items such as hankies or wristbands? And did you know that they have a precise meaning, and also wearing them on the left or on the right has a meaning? Long story short: left top, right bottom. And here is a list of which color indicates which “activity” or, if you wish, interest.
The traditional meaning of Leather to a Leatherman
As most of you might have noticed, real good quality Leather is expensive. Back in the days we’ve been talking about, there weren’t hundreds of Pakistani, Indian and Bangladesh manufacturers stalking you on instagram to sell you poorly built garments (the same poorly built garments you’ll buy through some of the most recognized and expensive brands in the market, by the way, who source exactly there). Leather wasn’t so easy to afford, although it was of course cheaper than today.
That’s the typical reason why, when a newcomer would be allowed to a Leather group, it would own no Leathers at all. It would have a Mentor, or a Daddy, who would teach it the ropes to the lifestyle. When the Mentor would think that the boy/girl was ready to actually start their path in Leather life, a Leather item was gifted to them.
Especially in Old Guard Leather, Leather is an award, a recognition and is gifted as an act of love and mutual validation that “we are part of the same Family”. That’s something else that comes from both Military life and Motorcycle riders lives. Just like Leather Vests and pins were earned and meant significant meaning, also in Leather life, the gear you wear has an outstanding emotional and personal value attached to it.
That is also why you don’t need to own expensive leather to be welcomed to the Leather scene. It’s more important that you adhere to the principles and lifestyle; your Mentor will surely gift you or help you purchase your first Leather item, when the time is right.
Why do you wear Leather?
One time I got asked why do I wear my Leather, today. To me, there’s close to no fetish for Leather. When I wear Leather other than Boots (which I wear daily), it’s to give the proper importance and show formal etiquette to the circumstance. It could be a session, it could be a ceremony, it could be a gathering. It’s a way to honor the situation, myself and my guest or partner, with symbols that stand tall in the celebration of our lifestyle.
When you’re wearing your leather you should feel pride, feel power, feel commitment and feel like you’re not alone. Without the structure of a real Leather community, I believe 90% of people wearing leather truly just feel more judged and lonely. Instead they should feel like part of something bigger. In my case, I know I’m part of it because this is my nature, and there’s nothing better than finding your people.
I guess that many people have other reasons to have a kink about leather. From the boots and law enforcement apparel and all it can mean to many of us, the idea of Domination it conveys, and of course Uniforms for Old Guard people.
To me? As an Old Guard Leatherman, to me it’s about Tradition, Honor and belonging. To me it is an honor to wear my Leather.
FAQs
Is wearing leather a fashion choice or does it have deeper meaning?
With the scope of this question being "withing the glbt scene", wearing Leather is supposed to represent the deeper meaning we covered in this article. Nowadays, it's often less than a fashion choice.
Does wearing leather have any historical or cultural origins?
The cultural meaning of wearing leather goes back to before the year 0, when men used to warm themselves up by wearing the hides of the animals they hunt. In modern history, wearing Leather sprouts from the world of motorcycle riders and Military. Specifically when it come sto Leather as a Lifestyle, it comes from Old Guard Leather as a subcommunity driven by the admiration and romanticization of discipline, camaraderie, masculinity and honor.
Why do some gay men choose to wear leather?
Today, it happens mostly just for social validation or to gain followers online, as sad and empty as this reason is. Of course this is just the larger crowd. Many men today wear Leather because they identify as Leathermen, and are part of the BDSM world.
Do I need to wear expensive Leather to approach Leather folk?
No. Any intelligent person in or outside the Leather scene will never judge you because of the lack of gear; if anything, you might be judged for sporting gear that has no history or identity behind it. Leather is earned as you learn the ropes in the community that you choose to belong to.
Please … more of this food for thought
Would love to read more about it or you. Very interesting thoughts of a man knowing what he thinks of and why he thinks so going back to look for its roots. Great esteem towards your writing!
Hello,
My Name is Rob and I am a Dutch guy living in Berlin, Germany.
I was really touched by your Story, because I had the same experience when I was a child. I was one year older than you were, when I was in a shop with my mother and I saw a pair of Brown leathergloves for children. The Moment I saw them, I needed them. I had no idea why (at the Age of five one doesn’t have a clue about the existance of fetish) but I needed them badly.
So I stole them, having a real Situation with ma mum when she found them 🙂
I started loving my father’s gloves and I put them under a drawer to take them out when I was in bed. I was about 7 years then.
When I was eight, I did my first communion (no idea if this is correct English) and I got my first suit. Afterwards I loved to wear my White Shirt, tie and my gloves playing Gangster and hostage with my buddies. Binding them at a tree “Smoking” a chewing gum cigarette and Holding a toy gun.
At nine I had my first erection during a “Scene” and when I was 13 I entered a sex shop and saw drawings of Tom of Finland for the very first time. And then I knew what I Need.
When I put on my leather, I become my true self. I relax and feel happy and proud. It is not about being fashionable or handsome. It is about Feeling the leather, Hearing it when Walking and playing with buddies and being proud to be a true leatherman.
It just males me feel so good to be part of this community by nature.
Unfortunately the Scene in Berlin is getting smaller and smaller. Oh I know, during Folsom Europe and Easter there are loads of guys in Berlin wearing leather. But during the rest of the year most guys run around in Sneakers and jockstraps.
And even during those Events there are Little true leathermen. Many guys buy their fancy leatherthey day they arrive and they are “vogueing” in the Lab (Berlin Club), at the PIG Party etc. They are dressed up like a leatherman, but they are not.
I love to call them “Alexis Carringtons in Leather”. There is one Thing that betrays them… It’s their eyes. When they lean against a wall, one leg angled with a bottle of Becks on their thigh, one could think “Fuck he’s a real leatherman!”.
But when you look into the guy’s eyes, you’ll notice that he is not himself. Confident, comfortable, strong. Such men just Dress up to attract real leathermen. But ist’s a fake.
When I take someone home many men immediately start undressing. I never undress and alway sleaze fully geared. There’s no exception. Sex without wearing leather is no sex for me. I Need gear (I also fancy the great U.S. cop uniforms) Those men who do the same are very, very rare nowadays.
And when I force them to put the gear on again, they do but one notices that tey are not comfortable. Although I am a demanding TOP it still doesn’t work when the heart is not involved. I like to force and I love to dominate, but such Scenes only work when both want it. Otherwise it becomes shallow.
I hate it when I fuck a guys throat and he wont kneel but just hunkers down. I tell them to kneel and than they often say “But than my leather will get scratches and get dirty”. I walk away because I am turned off.
Leather is not about being “pretty”. It is protection gear. Like the author already wrote., were the first gay bare biker Clubs. As far as I know did gay men write contact adverts with some codewords, because being gay was still a crime in those days.
Biker Clubs where another possibility for men to meet and the only material for biker gear was leather, because synthetric fibres hadn’t been invented or weren’t used yet. So leather was rough enough to protect when having an accident with the bike. And if there’s a scratch or some liquids *grin* drip on the, oh so precious, designer leather, what the hell. Take a Cloth and whipoe it off.
And the signs of being used makes leather more beautiful. use greas to Keep it in condition and the scratches are history.
I have no idea why it has become some fashionista Thing to wear leather.
My first BLUF Party in Berlin was a big disappointment. When I arrived I saw a crowd of men all in black leather and I thought “I’m in heaven”. Well not really…
It was like a cocktail party with fingerfood. There was no sexual tention at all, because the gents were talking about brands, styles and prices. “Who tailored your uniform? Ah really? He’s so good. I love his style. What did you pay?”. Like the profile of a BLUF member who writes in his dislike list “Cheap Leather”…
What the hell is that about? I rather have a masculine guy in $100 leather than a dressed up, disguised one in a $6000 uniform. Leather is not about being fancy, posh, pretty. It is about pride, masculinity and being part of a community of proud men with values.
I love men who are naturally comfortable and proud to be a leatherman and all that comes with it. I am longing back to the times when the leather community was authentic.
Thanks a lot for reading this long epos.
Regards, Rob
Hello Rob. Couldn’t agree more with what You said. Each line, expexially about leather events and BLUF, which sorry people, for many reasons sometimes I feel like “Bullshit Lines Up Fashionable”. Though I am a young Master and I respect the elder leather men and don’t want to be misunderstood. I will write a longer post about this later. For now, really hope to grab a beer together at Folsom if you’ll be there. We’re bringing the youngest of our slaves, he’s never been there. Big hugs
Buonasera a Lei Rob. La Sua storia mi ha molto colpito, ed è una conferma che da tempo cercavo: si nasce Top/Master e Leatherman, e di questo sono molto contento perchè da tempo porto avanti questa ipotesi ritagliando un posto d’ èlite nella gerarchia per uomini come Lei ( Sir Lupus anche vi rientrerebbe stando ad un articolo che ho di recente commentato). Nulla da togliere a coloro che si sono “polarizzati” (da slave/bottom a Master /Top, cosa che io non reputo naturale, ma è un mio pensiero, non me ne vogliano i “polarizzati” per questo), ma i ” purosangue” hanno una marcia in più! Ma venendo al suo racconto…sono sconcertato, da quanto ha scritto riguardo le Sue esperienze, e pensavo che la situazione fosse meno grave di quel che immaginassi, ho dovuto ricredermi; mi sale molta rabbia a leggere che uno slave non si inginocchi perchè ” la sua pelle si graffia o sporca” tralasciando che…uno slave non dovrebbe vestire come un Master, e che, la divisa, la pelle, il cuoio sono solo del Master, uno slave dovrebbe vestire solo jeans e t-shirt bianca ( o altro colore), massimo avere al polso un bracciale a fascia in pelle nero, dono del suo Padrone e nulla più. Mi ha riportato alla mente, inoltre un episodio del Natale 2019 dove ero a Firenze con un’ amica, ed ero vestito sportivo/elegante, molto sobrio, come sempre…e avevo un giubbino di pelle marrone scuro (ne possiedo due e mi piacciono molto, li indosso però raramente perchè ci tengo); c’ erano nei paraggi appostati una coppia e un loro amico credo, più il loro cane, vestiti alla “fashion leatherman”. Di virile non avevano letteralmente nulla. Ho provato un disagio che non saprei definire, e loro se ne sono accorti nonostante mantenessi una certa forma di indifferenza ( oltre che distanza), pensi che…anche il loro cane era agghingherato, “come si fa a non vergognarsi di essere quello che non si è?” Questo echeggiava nella mia mente…Spero che Lei, Rob, incontri uno slave che sappia gratificarla, e spero incontri il Suo slave, la parte complementare, come auguro a me di trovare il Master per cui sono stato creato e spero sia un “purosangue” come lo è Lei e Sir Lupus! E’ dura ma dobbiamo ritrovarci, dobbiamo trovare la nostra gente. Saluti.
Great thninikg! That really breaks the mold!
Thank you!